ODEN Part TWO

Jan 12, 2021 | Recipes, Winter

おでん ODEN

Various ingredients find their way into the belly-warming stew known as oden. Most versions include myriad sausage-like items made from surimi (fish and seafood ground to a paste). Some of these are deep-fried while others are boiled, roasted, grilled or steamed. It can be challenging to identify the various items (especially for those new to eating oden).

I have created an illustrated cheat sheet “guide” to some of the more puzzling surimi sausages. Download An Illustrated Guide to (surimi) ODEN Items

As with many dishes in Japan, regional variations abound. Oden served in the Kanto region (Tokyo and its environs) is typically slow-simmered in a pale amber-colored, slightly sweet yet savory, katsuo-bushi-enriched broth. Sharp karashi mustard is often smeared on the edge of the plate (for either dipping piece-by-piece, or dissolving in some of the broth).

In the Kansai area (Osaka, Kyoto, Kobe), oden is a hodge-podge assortment simmered in a dark, soy-burnished soup referred to as Kanto NI (literally “simmered in the style of Tokyo”) an oxymoron if ever there was one The usual Kansai choice of usukuchi soy sauce is replaced by the Kanto “norm” of dark soy sauce. Most versions of Osaka oden include gyū suji (bits of beef tendon threaded on thin skewers).

Shizuoka’s distinctive version of oden (upper right) includes kuro (“black”) hanpen made from assertive mackerel and sardines rather than mild-flavored, pale-colored cod and flounder found elsewhere. The finishing touch for Shizuoka oden is a sprinkle of ao nori sea herb, mixed with crushed, toasted katsuo-bushi.

Kanazawa (Ishikawa Prefecture on the Sea of Japan) is known for its dried ofu wheat gluten so its not surprising that Kanazawa’s oden (lower left) includes circles of kuruma-bu that absorb the flavorful broth.

Nagasaki’s oden (upper left corner) inevitably includes skewered slabs of pink-and-white kamaboko and something locals call “Dragon’s Eye” — boiled eggs encased in fish paste and cut in half… somewhat like Scotch eggs are cloaked in minced pork sausage.

DOWNLOAD a basic recipe for assembling oden. You can choose either the KANTO version or the KANSAI version for the broth.

ODEN that features vegan and vegetarian options is the focus of ODEN Part ONE.

 

Junsai, a summertime delicacy

Junsai, a summertime delicacy

JUNSAI (water shield; Brasenia schreberi) grows naturally in lakes, ponds and slow streams in many parts of the world but only Japan and China have a long history of cultivating the plant as a food. The Japanese especially love foods with a tsuru tsuru (slippery,...

Kashiwa Mochi

Kashiwa Mochi

So named because this sweet is wrapped in kashiwa (oak) leaves, kashiwa mochi 柏餅 is enjoyed during the Golden Week holidays, early in May. Historically this sweet is associated with Tango no Sekku (also known as Kodomo no Hi or Children's Day). What's the connection?...

Fresh Bamboo Shoots

Fresh Bamboo Shoots

The moment in the culinary calendar when a food is at its seasonal peak of flavor is referred to as shün, and it is the driving force in most Japanese kitchens. Indeed, entire menus are planned around shün ingredients. In the spring, as tender bamboo buds begin to...

Kiriboshi Daikon

Kiriboshi Daikon

Before refrigeration became widely available, pre-modern societies struggled with keeping fresh food from spoiling. A variety of ingenious techniques were developed throughout the world, including drying fresh foods in well-ventilated shade. In Japan, the resulting...

Recent Posts & Projects