by Elizabeth Andoh | Jun 1, 2020 | Kitchen Culture, Summer
RAINY SEASON KITCHEN TSUYU (梅雨 literally, “plum rain”) comes to the Japanese archipelago every year as spring turns to summer. The constant dampness of tsuyu encourages the growth of kabi (mildew, and molds) requiring a strategy (taisaku 対策) … and...
by Elizabeth Andoh | May 22, 2020 | Kitchen Culture, Tools & Techniques, Year-Round
The Japanese developed two very special graters for two specific foods: 鬼おろし機 oni oroshi ki (“monster graters”) made from bamboo used to coarsely grate daikon into shards and鮫の皮 samékawa graters made from nubbly sharkskin that transform tough, fibrous wasabi roots...
by Elizabeth Andoh | May 12, 2020 | Kitchen Culture, Spring
初鰹 HATSU-GATSUO First Catch of the Season Japan’s seasonal sensibility is always on display at table; here the transition from spring into early summer is celebrated with hatsu-gatsuo (skipjack tuna (Katsuwonus pelamis) prepared tataki-style. Whole loins of katsuo...
by Elizabeth Andoh | Apr 22, 2020 | Kitchen Culture, Spring
Fava Beans: Sora Mamé そら豆 (Fava beans have been part of the eastern Mediterranean diet (Egypt, Greece, Italy) for at least 4000 years. There are stories of monks from India traveling through China who brought fava beans to Japan in the Nara Period (710-794...
by Elizabeth Andoh | Apr 12, 2020 | Kitchen Culture, Year-Round
Gingery Soy-Stewed Red Snapper, several versions 金目鯛の煮付 KINMEDAI no NITSUKÉ Nitsuké-style stewed fish is especially flavorful when cooked bone-in. In addition to slices with skin and bone intact, various fish parts including heads, and collars are delicious prepared...
by Elizabeth Andoh | Mar 22, 2020 | Kitchen Culture, Tools & Techniques, Year-Round
Thick Rolled Omelet Atsu Tamago Yaki厚玉子焼き A classic in the washoku kitchen, thick, rolled omelets are made by cooking a seasoned egg mixture, layer by layer, in a pan – preferably a square or rectangular-shaped one. In and around Tokyo, the egg mixture is rather...
by Elizabeth Andoh | Mar 12, 2020 | Kitchen Culture, Tools & Techniques, Year-Round
Sa = sato (sugar); saké also begins with “sa”; Shi = shio (salt); Su = su (vinegar); Sé = sé is currently pronounced shō and stands for shōyu or soy sauce; So = miso The Japanese Culinary “Alphabet” To maximize flavor and achieve tenderness with minimal...
by Elizabeth Andoh | Mar 2, 2020 | Culture, Kitchen Culture, Spring
The Andoh Family’s full set of HINA NINGYŌ Just off camera is a wind-up music box that plays Ureshi Hina Matsuri うれしひな祭り. Download a chart explaining each of the dolls, and words to the song. 雛祭り Hina Matsuri Doll’s Day For ancient agrarian societies,...
by Elizabeth Andoh | Feb 22, 2020 | Kitchen Culture, Spring
Fuki no Tō 蕗の薹BUTTERBUR (Petasites japonicas) Sansai, literally “mountain vegetables,” are foraged from woodland areas in various parts of Japan as winter thaws into spring. When sansai dishes appear at table, it signals the start of culinary spring fever: an...
by Elizabeth Andoh | Feb 12, 2020 | Kitchen Culture, Winter
Salmon Saké Kasu Chowder 粕汁SAKÉ KASU-JIRU A belly-warming salmon and root vegetable chowder, shaké no kasu-jiru, is standard wintertime fare throughout Japan’s northeastern region, the Tohoku. Every household seems to have its own rendition, but with this master...
by Elizabeth Andoh | Feb 6, 2020 | Culture, Kitchen Culture, Winter
A sampling of Japan’s chocolates (clockwide from top right) chocolate covered yuzu peel, bonbons filled with various shochū spirits, bonbons filled with saké, matcha infused chocolate planks, white chocolate animal characters, a variety of elegant truffles. The...
by Elizabeth Andoh | Feb 2, 2020 | Culture, Holiday, Kitchen Culture, Spring, Winter
FUKU wa UCHI ONI wa SOTO Bring in Good Fortune! Throw out the ogres! 節分 Setsubun, a marker on the ancient, lunar-based koyomi calendar indicates the start of a new season; setsubun breaks occur many times during the year. Today in Japan the...
by Elizabeth Andoh | Jan 22, 2020 | Kitchen Culture, Winter
Furofuki Daikon topped with Yuzu-Scented Miso ふろふき大根 Furofuki Daikon Piping Hot Radish with Miso Sauce Furofuki, literally “blowing steam,” is the name given to vegetables – most often daikon radish – that has been tender-prepped and then simmered in dashi broth....
by Elizabeth Andoh | Jan 12, 2020 | Kitchen Culture, Tools & Techniques
16th century scroll (Shuhanron Emaki) 酒飯論絵巻 落し蓋 Otoshi-Buta Dropped Lids Used in Japanese kitchens for centuries for preparing nimono (simmered dishes), otoshi-buta lids drop down to sit directly on the food, rather than on the rim of a pot. Fuel-efficient as they...
by Elizabeth Andoh | Jan 2, 2020 | Culture, Holiday, Kitchen Culture, Spring, Winter
From left to right, the seven spring herbs are: SERI, NAZUNA, GOGYŌ, HAKOBERA, HOTOKÉNOZA, SUZUNA, SUZUSHIRO 七草粥 Nana Kusa Kayu Rice Porridge with Seven Spring Herbs More than a thousand years ago, the Japanese spoke of watari-dori (“migrating birds”)...
by Elizabeth Andoh | Dec 22, 2019 | Culture, Holiday, Kitchen Culture, Winter
Kuri kinton sweet chestnuts in yam paste. KURI KINTON 栗金団 This traditional New Year’s sweet combines syrup-stewed chestnuts with a sweet paste made of mashed and sieved satsuma imo potato. The golden color of both the chestnuts and the potatoes are enhanced by...
by Elizabeth Andoh | Dec 12, 2019 | Culture, Holiday, Kitchen Culture, Winter
Classic KOHAKU NAMASU, “red and white salad” is made from finely shredded daikon and carrots. Fruit peel is added after the vegetables have been salt-wilted and rinsed. The mixture is marinated in sweet-and-sour sauce for several hours to several days. Yuzu peel is...
by Elizabeth Andoh | Dec 2, 2019 | Culture, Holiday, Kitchen Culture, Winter
Glossy sugar-stewed black beans, a New Year’s treat. KURO MAMÉ black beans・earnest effort 黒豆・苦労+忠実 In the world of culinary endeavor, word-play can add a nuance of flavor to mealtime. Several of Japan’s osechi dishes served during the New Year holiday exemplify...
by Elizabeth Andoh | Nov 28, 2019 | Kitchen Culture, Year-Round
Four varieties of kombu (left to right): Rishiri, ma, Rausu, Hidaka. Find out about the differences among kombu varieties and how best to make stock from them. 昆布の力 Kombu Power All varieties of kombu are rich in umami seibun, or glutamates; the essence of flavor...
by Elizabeth Andoh | Nov 22, 2019 | Culture, Holiday, Kitchen Culture, Winter
In the nishimé assortment pictured here, lotus root, carrots and country potatoes have been simmered Kansai-style while dried shiitaké mushrooms and konnyaku braids have been prepared Kanto-style. NISHIMÉ・煮染め Hundreds of variations on this classic soy-simmered dish...